Tailor Talk

The Importance of Black Wedding Gown Designers

A Cultural statement or fashion statement? It’s no secret that Black culture let alone Black women are trendsetters. However, being the epitome of greatness has its cost. We’re frequently left out of the fashion industry that sucks our creativity dry or bluntly steals it.

Instead of having the dream of working for a bridal house that knows nothing of your history, many women decided to make their own bridal house and cater it to the Black woman experience.

Many fashion houses and designers do take into account that women have the most spending power, but what about the percentage of Black women who are turned away when they see they don’t fit within your criteria to spend their money with you? Black bodies are only celebrated when mimicked by other races. We come in so many shapes, sizes, and skin tones. Representation is everything and these designers are creating history one thread at a time..

Numerous talented Black designers do great work, fighting to be heard and seen. So, If you’re on the search for a Black designer who understands your struggles and culture here are just a few to keep your eye on.

Andrea Pitter Campbell of Pantora Bridal

COURTESY OF PANTORA BRIDAL

Since 2013, Pantora has been disrupting the industry and making magic for brides of all sizes and skin tones. Their brand employs texture, rich fabrications, dramatic silhouettes, and extreme hand-crafted detail. Not only do they specialize in brides, but Pantora also creates bridesmaid gowns and ready-to-wear clothing.

“What became obvious in my decision to work in the bridal industry was that it lacked inclusion. I wanted to create a safe place for brides to be celebrated for exactly who they are,” says Andrea Pitter-Campbell of Pantora Bridal, a salon catering to Black brides. “Ours is an important story to tell. As I often say, we’re bigger than wedding dresses.”

Jean-Ralph Thurin

Following in his grandmother’s footsteps, Jean-Ralph began his fashion career by making custom prom gowns for classmates in high school. Thurin proceeded to Graduate from Parsons School of Design, where he became fascinated with the fashion of haute couture houses.

COURTESY OF JEAN-RALPH THURIN

With Thurin’s skills of sewing, and attention to detail he can give every bride what she desires for her wedding day. Jean-Paul can capture your essence with a special design made for you! “Every bride is different, and I have learned to listen, really listen to every one of them”, says Jean-Ralph. By paying close attention and through collaboration, Jean-Ralph Thurin captures your essence and designs and creates a wedding gown that is authentically yours!

He designs gowns to fit Black women and their bodies. Most of his inspiration stems from architecture.
“Sometimes it’s a curve in the window, it’s a pillar, it’s the interior, but that really gets me going,” he says. “Most of my clients really love form-hugging dresses and really appreciate their curves, so a lot of times it’s me trying to enhance that with different types of lines and fabric embellishments, but it extends from architecture.”

ESÉ AZÉNABOR-GREMBOWSKI

This self-taught designer traded in the traditional college lifestyle for the world of arts and craftsmanship.

Esé Azénabor designs for clients who have a passion for art and understand the hard work that goes into each haute couture and bespoke garment. Esé Azénabor is known for her hand beading with fine crystals, stones, and pearls, hand embroidery on fine French lace and tulle, her structuring with hymo (the main fabric used to make a floating front canvas), hard tulle, boning, and attention to detail.

“Before I made my own dress I wanted to do some research and go to some bridal stores to see what is out there, and I found that a lot that was out there catered to women with lighter skin as far as matching the lace or the illusion tulle,” Azénabor says. “So when you are a darker woman and you wear the dress, it doesn’t match and that’s the only option you have. You just end up wearing it but it’s not really made for you.”

Valentine Avoh

Having had a passion for fashion and couture since a child Valentine contained in her young adult years. Taking that leap of faith and traveling to London at just 20 years young.

Valentine Avoh
COURTESY OF VALENTINE AVOH

Avoh made her dream come true, graduating from the London College of Fashion and continuing her career, working in couture houses such as Alexander McQueen, Alexis Mabille, San Andrès Milano, and Marc Philippe Coudeyre.
Avoh created her wedding gown for a friend in 2009. There she fell in love with “this still artisanal process which brings together my love for fashion, technology and human encounters.” This led to her brand launch in 2017.
Valentine grabs her inspiration from the femme fatal glamour classic Hollywood movie stars such as Rita Hayworth and Marlène Dietrich, her gown channel, and her cinematographic essence.

Cynthia Grafton-Holt of Oui Madam

Cynthia Grafton-Holt is the owner and designer behind Oui Madam Bridal Atelier. A highly skilled dressmaker, Grafton-Holt has several years of experience in the wedding industry, and her handcrafted bespoke gowns have been worn by high-profile clients and celebrities.

“I help brides who don’t want a typical bridal gown. My brides just want a gown that is everything she has been dreaming of—one that is elegant and fills her with confidence to wear on her big day,” the designer shares. “A wedding dress that is exclusively designed and perfectly fitted in all the right places leaves my client free to enjoy the occasion with total confidence.”

“Working in the fashion industry for many years for high end designers enabled me to master the skills required to create high quality garments from luxury fabrics.  And that experience means that I am one a few highly skilled London Wedding Dressmakers & Designers  who can achieve impeccably fitted gowns with appropriate balance and style for the individual.  Handcrafting bespoke gowns for high profile clients is an art form.  There have been occasions where I have created gowns for clients whom I have never even meet in person;  requiring indepth understanding of both the clients needs and the job itself, to be able to cut and fit remotely, is dressmaking at a higher level.  Of my most favored  skill (that my clients benefit from), is my ability to create discreet internal corsetry that is supportive, redefines the waistline and elongates the body totally without surgery.”

Cheryl A. Lofton & Associates

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